Every day this week, I have been joined by pods of large dolphins within minutes of launching. They rise without warning, parallel our course with playful precision, arc smoothly through the water surface and then disappear without a trace, but long after they leave us behind, the smiles and high spirits remain. Either I am very lucky or there are a lot of dolphins along the coast right now. Watsons Bay, Sydney Cliffs and Cronulla Beach have all hosted these wonderful encounters.
The Balanced Boater
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Destination Unknown
Destination Unknown
The idea was not to get hung up about goals
and just see where each day would find us, whether driving, walking or paddling. We figured if we set no rules about our destination we would have the right
mindset to make every day a real part of the journey.
Four days later as we walked along the rippled grey sands of Zoë Bay watching a procession of clouds climb the jungle slopes of Mount Bowen we were content to be on the paddling stage of our 2012 winter escape.
In
the sand we saw another set of footprints on an otherwise pristine beach and
then a single wavy line traced in the sand on either side of the one word
inscription: “journey”. There were peaks and troughs, hearts and crosses all
tied into the trace; it wound around the carapace and skull of a turtle that
had remained unmoved since the creature’s demise; and then the eloquent graphic
wound off into the dense regrowth. By tomorrow morning the thin line in the
sand would be washed away and we would be tracing our own meandering course to Sunset Beach via Nina Bay .
When we launched out of Lucinda our only
plan was to paddle north visiting some favourite locations from previous trips
and also to check out some places that we had sailed straight past on earlier longer and faster trips.
From our first camp at Hinchinbrook, we walked through the rainforest to Zoë Falls and watched the Jungle Perch hunting in the plunge pool;
and some very big snails chomping away on the forest floor.
and some very big snails chomping away on the forest floor.
At Sunset Beach, under the forest canopy, we splashed around in a fresh water pool along with hatchlings of at least a dozen different
species of fish including Mangrove Jack and baby Barramundi. Above us, a massive tree orchid in full bloom.
Our camp had a wicker chair amongst the flotsam and Sharon quickly took up residence and assumed a regal air.
A number of times we have paddled straight past
Paddling to
Long
before we saw it we heard the low pitched, gut rattling call of a humpback
whale seemingly singing to us for the last couple of miles as we paddled over foul ground; the
huge creature just effortlessly gliding through the hazards that seemed so
close beneath our hulls.
We didn't really discuss staying another
night at Stephens Island , we were just busy beach-combing and enjoying the view as it
appeared and disappeared through low cloud and then it was lunchtime, so there
was no decision to make. Rainforest bird-calls provided our sound scape.
To
the southwest Clump Point provides a launch site for charter boats and
itinerant yachts so it was no surprise when day trippers and crew from “Big
Mama” sailed out of the gathering mist to shelter in the lee of our retreat.
After exchanging notes on sources of freshwater, recent whale sightings,
sharks, crocs and the prevailing weather, we left our day trippers to their own
explorations; there was plenty of paradise to go around.
Later in the afternoon as the charter weighed
anchor the Skipper came ashore with fresh mackerel fillets, kebabs and a
delicious selection of freshly cut salads for our dinner. We had eaten all our good food and were
steeling ourselves for our first unadorned dehydrated meal when this feast
arrived ready to go; a fitting last dinner on the islands and a truly generous
gesture by the skipper.
As we pushed off Stephens Island into
the sea fog with a steady breeze and metre of running sea, all I could see was Sharon ’s boat and
the waves rolling in and out of our narrow field of view. Our vivid sails were
the only relief in a monochromatic seascape.
The next day as we stood in the rain at
Flying Fish Point looking out into the same heavy grey overcast we started
talking about Carnarvon Gorge and weighed up the benefits of another three days
of paddling in the rain and fog, against a bushwalking detour to Carnarvon
Gorge on our return leg……
Deep, cool, damp canyons : Carnarvon Gorge National Park
.
Camping under ancient Macrozamias : Carnarvon Gorge National Park
Taking a helicopter ride: Carnarvon Gorge National Park
"Three Sisters": Carnarvon Gorge
Monday, June 25, 2012
The Spice of Life - Autumn Winter 2012
Challenging and erratic weather enjoyed with paddling companions new and old; special overseas guests; a diverse training calendar; a weekend away and some interesting local wildlife.
These are just a few of the many reasons why paddling on the New South Wales coast is a year round endeavour.
What the water loses in degrees it makes up for with variety.
Matt and Chris about to climb a very steep hill ( wind SE 22-28 swell to 4m) |
Matt and Chris about to hit the crest and lose the windbreak created in the trough. |
Matt taking a picture of me...... |
Josh enjoying the lively deep water that runs close to the cliffs at The Gap. |
Ken and the rest of the crew light up on the way out of Sydney Heads |
Megan braves the elements for a cold and swelly Tuesday night. |
Rae and her trusty Nordkapp LV reflect the setting sun |
Megan testing the Nordkapp LV around North Head |
Chris enjoying the sunset during a lull |
Wade watches on as South Head disappears in the mist, only Dunbar Head is visible |
Land exercises and demonstrations allowed for a different perspective and lots of opportunity for questions. |
Mark Sundin with a couple of ski enthusiasts trying out the Epic V10sport and V8 on Sydney Harbour . |
Sharon enjoying the cool waters and scenery around Mystery Bay on the South Coast. |
Monatgue Island, a tantalising view of this great one day paddling destination |
Eastern Fiddler Ray. A resident of the shallow waters of Vaucluse Bay , totally unconcerned as I drift overhead . |
A very Cheeky penguin that I spotted chasing fish around my legs while I was teaching rolling a couple of weeks ago. |
Wednesday, April 4, 2012
Swell
I sent out the call for starters for the evening paddle this week with the disclaimer "pond like conditions and a 1.5metre Easterly swell."
The wind was a gentle puff from the NE and after several days of zephyrs and calms there was little chance of a downwind blast.
On arriving at Sydney Heads there was no difference between observed and forecast conditions except that the swell was long and fast. As you can see in the photo above, the long wavelength is almost imperceptible in deep water away from the cliffs.
The one important number that the BOM forecast doesn't give you is wave period and these swells were often 10 -12 seconds; not big by SW Tassie standards but when these fat waves collide with the Sydney cliff line head-on then there is potential for a little bit of action.
Chris approaching Bluefish Point and the rebound is a little more apparent.
Matt gets a shower.
Matt chasing his Dragon.
Matt gets a shower.
As we rounded Bluefish point to the North. Matt announced that the "dragon was awake". We couldn't see the "dragon" but it's deep guttural roar and the mist and spray emanating from its den were pretty convincing evidence of a powerful beast in the low overhangs that smother the rising swell as it swings around the point causing these eruptions of spray and chaotic surface conditions.
Matt chasing his Dragon.
Mark enjoying a bit of a bounce.
I think this qualifies as "clapotis" i.e. industrial strength rebound.
It is truly bizarre to feel the force of all the water driving you away from the cliffs but this is what makes this spot relatively safe when the conditions are right. In the photo above Mark and I are pelted hard by the spray.
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